B'zar 2011 Std

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In the B'zar line of Trick Kites we have come to what appears to be the ultimate model. Experiences with both the 2009 and the 2010 models showed us what details needed to be changed and enhanced, in what field we could improve the behavier of the kite in the air during flight and performing all kinds of tricks.

The major differences compared to the 2010 Std:

1. There's extra volume in the nose part and close to the upper leading edge, we added billow in the seam starting from the nose. This gives the kite a better lift in fade and backspins, better precision, deeper lazy susans and multilazies, far better yoyo's.

2. We also added volume to the area between the spine and the standoffs by adding billow to the seam that starts above the center T. In doing so, the kite gets a UL feeling and behavier, especially the lift, good responding in low wind, better floating in flatspins and so on...

3. The spine is a bit shorter, for easier yoyo's and to compensate for the added volume in the tail.

4. The trailing edge has more bend to it, with less area of sail between the tail and the first standoff. This improves yoyo's and other pitch tricks.

5. Another change to the Trailing edge, we added some sail from the second standoff towards the wingtip. This gives better Side Slides, prevents tumbling to one side and also a better Comete because the wingtips have a little more drag.

6. Heavier lower spreaders to lower the center of gravity, to compensate for a slightly higher center T. Here we find a compensation that has only benefits!

7. Stiffer lower spreaders better reaction to inputs and less wash-out (check this: we use the distance from a wingtip to the ground when a kite lays on its belly, as a reference). Less wash-out means better backspins. In doing so, we could put the outer standoff a little to the outside without losing the ability for easy backspins.

8. Special extending center seam, taking into account the deformation of the stretched spine. With this adjustment, volumes remain exactly as intended, both in terms of volume and position. With a straight center seam there would automatically be a dent near the upper spreader in the fabric, that would mean extra volume, so there is fabric taken away. This is also the case near the tail. This is fully compensated by extending the center seam. Important here is to use the right spar, namely a P2X.

9. The nose of the kite is stitched at 1 cm from the outside. This way both Leading Edges can come a little closer together.

10. The standoffs stand together on the Lower Spreader. This will even the pressure on the sail.

A lot of experience and testing went into this kite. It is therefore difficult to correctly bring across all the details that are important to the flight behavior. Ultimately it is that what the pilots will find to be most appealing: the flight behavior of the kite.
We want to emphasize that this kite is not so easy to make. By working with extra volume and pace of the sail seams it must be made very precisely. Some experience in building a kite is therefore appropriate for this model. It might help to see how others make their kite, so here we have a page guiding you from A to Z Click

It's really visual, with 263 full size pictures included! We have put that page into a .pdf file, so you can download it and watch it offline. DOWNLOAD PDF

Specifications:

Wind range 5 to 20 km/hour (1-4 Bft)
Wing span 2400 mm
Height 945 mm
weight 295 gram
Leading edges P200
Upper spreader carbon 6mm
Lower spreaders Black Diamond Strong (Gold Label)
Spine P2X
Stand-offs carbon 3mm
Tail weight 20 grams

Coloriser - Plans - Structure - Bridle:

Coloriser: Click on the picture to use the coloriser.

Plans: Available in PDF format.

 

 

1.The panel with the word "Mylar" on needs to made twice: once for the front in Icarex, once in Mylar for the backside of the sail. This is to enforce the sail where the sailgrabbers come.

2. The dotted lines are there just for your information, don't take them into acount when you put the sail parts together.

3. The patterns are printed out like they should be:'print and cut'

4. Put the left sail half on top of the right one (front sides against each other), sew the middle sew straight at 8mm, then fold over and sew with a 3 steps zig-zag.

PDF- A0 Layout

PDF - A0 Patterns

PDF - A4 complete

Structure: These are the dimensions of the spars and the distance between the various components. With the spine, stand-offs and leading edges, the endcaps are included in the measurements. (click to enlarge)

 

Bridle: Here are the measurements of the bridle. In the middle, connect the bridle ABOVE the center T. Some details can be seen here:

 

Here you'll find some pictures of home build B'zars: Picture page

For some of you it's impossible to build your own B'zar, for whatever reason. We understand that, that is why we set up some form of "build service". If you want a sail only, or a complete kite, send an e-mail to: nilsdelacourt@gmail.com
You can make arrangements with Nils about what you want, how and when.... :-)
To have an idea, a finished sail should cost around €125 or $180

Here's a video!